Kaliyana is one of my favourite designers, but she does not accept returns when buying online, and as I am in Australia I have no chance of popping into one of her stores to try before I buy. So I have to keep admiring her from afar. Being a sewist, that admiration of course translates into making my own versions of some of her designs. That is probably fortunate, as I am not very tall (161cm) and need to scale down the proportions to suit my frame.
When I first saw her anti-suit, I absolutely loved the concept and wanted one of my own. I started with the shirt and was rewarded with a really nice white shirt now residing in my wardrobe, which comes in terribly handy when we have important clients coming who might not appreciate my more eccentric Lagenlook outfits. It is not exactly conservative, but a white shirt always looks business like.
After I made the shirt, life got in the way and I got distracted with other things, and never actually got around to making the pants and jacket. Not deliberately anyway. But as I sew rather a lot of black pants and also have made some black Ponte jackets, I found that I can now actually put together a fair semblance of the anti-suit.
I suspect that designers are probably a bit nervous about how their customers look in their clothes in real life, rather than the model in their fashion shoots. And they probably particularly dislike amateur sewists having a go at reproducing their designs, but even if my results might not look as good as Kaliyana’s, I hope she knows that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. I am probably more in the demographic that buys her clothes anyway, rather than the young and skinny model, and if I had a stylist to arrange everything just so and a professional photographer taking a gazillion shots to get half a dozen that look amazing, I might have more of a chance to live up to her standards with my version of her $500+ suit.
For the wider pants in the top row of photos, I used Marcy Tilton’s Vogue 8712 pattern, version AB at ankle length, now sadly OOP, but one of my current TNT patterns.
The skinnier pants also shown in the second row are the StyleArc Barb pants.
Both look ok, I think the wider pants actually look better, more balanced, with the suit. I used Australian bengaline for both, my all time favourite fabric for pants, because it is stretchy, but doesn’t bag or pill like Ponte does, and wears like iron. It even doesn’t wrinkle and the stretch makes it unbelievably comfy to wear. I made a yoga type band instead of the elasticised waist, which makes the pants even more comfortable..
Here is a comparison pic between the wider and narrower pants. You be the judge. (The photo also shows my limited range of poses as a model. Too bad!)
The jacket is one I made years ago, first as a top, and then I converted it to a jacket because I thought it would get more wear that way, and it did. The fabric is a nice quality Ponte which is holding up well. Don’t ask me what the original pattern was, it is lost in the mists of time. It is A-line shape with front bands which are the longest points, then slopes up towards the side seams. The back hem is straight.
But the white shirt is loosely based on a Lyn Mizono patter, Vogue 1246. Here is a link to a detailed MO on Pattern Review, which describes how I modified it, which other patterns I used to supplement, and the key measurements to get the oversized look.