I use almost exclusively so-called TNT (Tried aNd True) patterns, patterns I have used over and over where I know that the result will be a success. It makes sewing quick and easy and my wardrobe preferences are very much simple styles anyway. Good on you, sewist who are adventurous and like to try out the new and unusual, or who are keen to stretch your skills. I salute you and I admire you, but you are a foreign species to me.
There are those focused on detail, and those who see only the big picture. I am the latter, what matters to me is the look of the whole outfit. That needs to look professional, but the individual sewing techniques used to achieve this don’t matter much to me. I know I can do welt pockets if required, but my ambitions vere off into different directions entirely.
But back to TNT patterns. I have 3-4 top or tunic patterns, 3 dress patterns, 2 pants and 2 skirt patterns that are my staples. I sew something most weekends, so I have quite a few of each, but the fabrics make all the difference and only other sewists would notice that I use patterns over and over. As we are a rare breed these days there are not many in my real world orbit. Most non-sewing people would see it as personal style.
But sometimes I use a pattern so much, because it is stylish, flattering, economical with fabric, quick to make and oh, so very useful to sew down what I have in my stash, that even I have to admit that I have done it to death. Alas, my self-developed tunic pattern, with a swing hemline and side vents has been a firm favourite this past year summer and winter for both wovens and knits, and consequently is now in that category. I have posted about it here, here and here. May it rest now in peace.
Thankfully I have found a couple of patterns for tops that have sparked my imagination and may take its place. A little early to tell, I need to see how much I like wearing them over time. They are both Tessuti patterns, who are one of my very favourite pattern makers. Quite a few of their patterns have been absolute gems, like the Eva and Lily dresses, the Jac shirt and the Fave Top. The latter in particular has been an obsession, that has now thankfully passed, but not before I made a gazillion versions in every conceivable fabric. My summer wardrobe is still full of them.
The Tessuti Mandy top has now captured my interest. It is still in my preferred oversized style, but a little more restrained than some of my wilder flights of fancy when I was in the grip of Tina Givens and Co.
The Tessuti Hazelwood top is not so much oversized as swing, a little short, but I love the look. Time will tell if I feel comfortable wearing it, and I’m sure I never will with skinny pants as pictured. I usually like to hide my bum as much as possible, and the new wide, cropped pants or culottes this might be a better option for me.
So watch this space for my version of these two. They would make a nice canvas for block printing too.
Sandra said:
I don’t own a serger and would appreciate your advice – would a small zig zag stitch work as the main stitching in the body of the garment and leave the edges raw? I’m new to stretch sewing.
LikeLiked by 1 person
Rivergum said:
If you mean sewing knits, such as jersey and Ponte, you can either sew these with a very small, wide zigzag stitch or even with an ordinary straight stitch, if you stretch these fabrics very slightly while sewing, or even without that. Trial and error will be your friend. Of seams pop here and there because they are sewn with a straight stitch, just fix them. Next time use your judgement if you want to use a zigzag or a straight stitch. The big drawback of zigzag stitches is that they are very time consuming to unpick if this should be necessary. I would say only use the zigzag where thee is a lot of stress on the seam.
There really is no need to finish seam allowances, as knit fabrics don’t fray. A serger allows you to do a stretchy seam, and it looks neater, but it is not necessary to sew knits.
LikeLike
Anonymous said:
Lovely to read your blog today and I am totally with you on using patterns over and over again as the fabric chosen can make all the difference to how they look. I have been busy using the Mandy Boat T and have printed off the new sized pattern which interestingly coincided with the alterations I have made to the original pattern. I can testify that is definitely hackable as well. Look forward to seeing your results using this pattern as well as the Hazelwood that I have yet to try.
LikeLike
Rivergum said:
Great to hear that you like the Mandy too and are having success with it. How have you been altering it? I have had to widen the armscyes and sleeves to make them comfortable if I am not using super stretchy jersey. I also found that shortening it to about 55cm looks better on my 161cm frame with the wide leg pants I like to wear.
LikeLike
Pam James said:
Hi! Thank you, as always, for your posts. I have made many Mandy Ts and love wearing them. Be wary though, the armhole psych is tight.
LikeLike
Rivergum said:
Sure is! Even the lower part of the sleeve if your fabric is not that stretchy.
LikeLike
Christine Trory said:
I forgot to mention earlier that, yes, I have widened the sleeves, particularly for a heavier knit. I have also shortened it as well. Last time I made a kind of loose roll neck cutting the neck rounder and lower and also made a high/low stepped hem. This was in a heavier knit that definitely required the sleeves to be widened. I am surprisingly pleased with this last iteration. Previously I have made it in striped knits and linen knits. I have been pleased with them all
LikeLike
Rivergum said:
Good to hear it’s not just that I have fat arms, haha. The grey is a heavy knit and not that stretchy, and although I widened the upper arm and armscye, it is a little tight on the lower arms as well. Must remember that next time I make the Mandy in something that is not all that stretchy.
LikeLike