Some time ago I came across Kaliyana’s Diamond Dress online and it was love at first sight.
At almost $300, the original was out of the question, but it thought I could probably have a go at running up something similar. These days I very rarely make something because I see and like a pattern, but rather because I see and like a fashion shot of a garment on Pinterest or elsewhere online. THEN I go hunting for a pattern to try and reproduce it. Mostly I find I already have the basic elements in my pattern collection and it is quite rare that I need to buy something new. Notable exceptions in the last couple of years have been a Vogue Marcy Tilton skirt and the StyleArc Toni dress. The latter seemed like a good starting point for the Diamond dress, with the bonus that I have made it before in several incarnations and know that it works for me.
Close up of front pattern piece:
However, I always do some modifications, I just can’t help myself. My apologies to the designer, because this time I have made quite a lot.
First of all, much as I love the look of the Toni cut on cap sleeves, they are problematic with my very square shoulders. The top seam always pulls and puckers and never looks quite right. I think on someone with sloping shoulders, where this is not a problem, they would look great, but sadly not on me. Believe me, I have tried. – So sleeveless it had to be.
V-necks have never been much of a favourite with me, even though they are supposed to be flattering. I just prefer a round neck or a cowl, much easier to sew, plus I know how high or low to make them to end up with a satisfactory result. With V-necks I always worry that they will end up too low and I will need to take care when moving about to avoid showing bits of myself no innocent bystander needs to see.
The next question was whether to keep the Toni front seam? I would definitely have done so with a plain fabric like that used for the Diamond dress, but the red batik I had on hand had a faint leaf pattern and I thought I might leave it alone and not interrupt it right in the middle of the dress, so to speak. After that I had a good look at the V shaped yoke and flanges you can see in the close up of the Diamond dress. I don’t dislike the design, but it just seemed an unnecessary complication. I definitely like simple lines and clothes that sew up quickly, without too much fussing about.
So after having eliminated just about everything from the original pattern and inspiration dress, all that was left to do was to join the Toni pattern pieces to a sleeveless bodice pattern I know fits me well, to be left with one front and one back pattern piece cut on the fold.
Perfect! Sew both pieces together at shoulders and sides, and with the addition of bias strips to tidy up the neck and the armscyes the dress was finished in a couple of hours. — Oh yes, there was a narrow hem too, which I folded twice and topstitched.
If you need more sewing details, have a look at Pattern Review.
So here is the finished dress, minus the black jacket, at least for now. I have one, but not with me as I am on holidays in the tropics at the moment, where jackets are quite unnecessary and so got left at home. To make up for it I am sporting a hat at least twice the size of the one worn by the model in my inspiration picture, — and no shoes!
With me-made necklace. This is simply silver plated beads strung on black silk cord, with a knot below each bead to hold it in place. No skills required whatsoever except in purchasing the materials! I knotted the cord at the back, leaving two long ends, with a bead on each. They sometimes dangle at the back and sometimes swing to the front.
pearlredmoon said:
looks fabulous, I love this. You are ingenious the way you wangle patterns around to get results like this
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Rivergum said:
Thanks Pearl, I think it’s just lots of experience and alas, a dash of old age. 🙂
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Jane Miller said:
Love this! I agree the round neckline works best, flattering for showing off a necklace too. Thanks for the inspiration!
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Rivergum said:
True, except like a dill I forgot to put on my necklace when I took the photo. Must catch up on that some time. 🙂
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pearlredmoon said:
oh please show us another pic with necklace, you always have marvellous
accessories too!
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Rivergum said:
Thanks for encouraging me to post photos with the necklace Pearl. I was starting to think that the bodice really looked too plain, maybe I should have added a small cowl? But as soon as I saw the photos with necklace I realised why I had left the bodice plain in the first place. :-). Silly to have posted photos without it.
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marcia said:
Beautiful dress. You did a great copy!!
Marciae
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Rivergum said:
Thanks, Marciae. I suppose a lot of the credit has to go to Kaliyana. I hope she understands that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. It might even get her a few more sales from those with more cash than myself.
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Janet said:
Thanks for the terrific post and showing us your beautiful red dress. It is great to hear from You! Welcome back!
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Rivergum said:
Thanks Janet. I have had problems with taking photos, which really cramps my style with blogging. No photos, no posts! While I am on holidays with a bit of time on my hands I have sorted this out, so there should be more coming soon catching up on what I have made.
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Rivergum said:
Christine said:
Fabulous dress. You are very inspirational on how you manipulate patterns to get the styles that you want.
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Rivergum said:
Thanks Christine. I find it easier than trying out a gazillion new patterns, although I am probably not much use to the pattern companies.
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jonwtn said:
I love Kaliyana clothes but they are indeed way beyond my budget – the one you’ve made is fabulous! I also love that jacket – had been looking at that earlier and was wondering what the best base pattern would be to try and make something similar – any ideas?
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Rivergum said:
Not as yet. I am planning a black silk jacket, but haven’t settled on a pattern yet, whether to do waterfall fronts or a shawl collar like in the picture. I must look through my patterns when I get home and will probably do a review and/or blog post when I am done.
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Chris T said:
That’s a lovely dress in a great fabric and beautifully done, thank you for sharing it.
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Rivergum said:
Thanks Chris. Nice to hear from you.
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Cocos Loft said:
so pretty. I’m inspired to re-visit the Toni. Happy New Year! Coco
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Rivergum said:
Happy New Year! Good luck with your sewing this year and enjoy the Toni.
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Fabrickated said:
It’s a clever hack! And lovely to wear red at Christmas. Well done.
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Rivergum said:
Thanks Fabrickated.
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