Animal prints have been in fashion for quite a few years now, so it is rather surprising that leopard spots are still an ‘in thing’. Normally I would not care, Lagenlook is much more long lived than mainstream fashion, so I am used to being able to wear my favourite pieces for many years. But when you venture into the obviously mainstream trendy such as a leopard print top, you want to avoid still wearing it when the trend has long passed. Fortunately I need not worry with this tunic yet, which is just as well because it is one of my go-to ones when the temps get chilly. The weather has suddenly turned cold, and while a top daily temperature of 17 degrees may seem balmy to some, here on the sunny Central Coast of NSW it represents the depth of winter.
The pattern I used is one i developed myself and has been a favourite for a good number of years. I initially got the idea from this Eileen Fisher top I saw on Pinterest.
And here are a few more versions of the ‘wide body with dropped shoulders halfway to the elbow and skinny sleeves’ silhouette.
Pinterest is a wonderful source of inspiration and you can even find this version with the pattern obligingly attached.
My own version has a hi-low hem and you can find the details about the pattern and sewing process here. Instead of the cowl I made a matching infinity scarf which I am wearing looped double. This was mostly because I could not decide whether I wanted a cowl or not, classic indecision, but I should have just gone ahead and made the cowl as I have never worn the top without the scarf.
The skirt is a bengaline pencil skirt with a yoga style waistband, one of my all time favourites. I winged it when I made it, adding a little extra width for the bum, then tapering inwards towards the hem. It is the classic quiet achiever and I wish I had preserved the pattern to make more skirts, but bengaline is such a stretchy, forgiving fabric that a few cm here or there don’t matter and I can probably wing it just as successfully with the next one. The important thing is to make it just wide enough below my saddlebags so it doesn’t pull inwards, highlighting them unnecessarily.
I used Australian bengaline, which is the stretchy kind, not the ribbed unstretchy one sold elsewhere as bengaline. The fiber mix is similar to Ponte, but it is a woven, not a knit, despite the stretch. The best version is viscose, nylon and Lycra, NOT the one containing poly. I love ponte for tops and dresses, but you really can’t go past bengaline for pants and skirts, because it doesn’t bag, pill or wrinkle, and it wears like iron. You will be enjoying your pull on pants and skirts for years and years, which is unfortunately rarely the case with Ponte.
If you fancy a similar pencil skirt of your own, Maria Denmark has posted a great tutorial on her website. Hers is much shorter, but of course every sewist will adjust the length to their preference.
pearlredmoon said:
as ever….a fabulous garment. Also, thanks for the observation about bengaline being a different type of fabric in Australia than elsewhere. Bengaline is a favoured fabric for me too, and though I publish patterns I wasn’t aware that the international equivalent doesn’t have stretch …woah!
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Rivergum said:
Yes, recommending a bengaline when it is not stretchy outside Australia could be tricky! I learnt the hard way. 🙂
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Christine said:
Another lovely top and thanks for the info about bengaline. Thanks also for the Maria Denmark tutorial. I want to do a re-fashion and I think this might work well.
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Rivergum said:
Good luck with your skirt!
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Louisa said:
Sweet outfit even if I am not font fond of animal prints! I’m surprised that fabric doesn’t go under a different name since it’s nothing like how we in the rest of the world understand bengaline. My experience is ribs, no stretch. I’d love to see a sample of the Australian version to see if there’s a North American equivalent or if you just have a lock on it!
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Rivergum said:
Sorry, but I really don’t know what Australian Bengaline is called in other places. As i said, it is a stretchy woven, quite hefty, not drapey. Used for high end pants and skirts here. It swishes a bit when you walk, a sound not unlike taffeta, but it is much thicker and contains different fibres. Different weave too because of the stretch. It has to be cut out sideways, because the stretch is lengthways, not selvage to selvage. Does that ring a bell?
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Vancouver Barbara said:
Yes – Bengaline. I’d love to see some samples of your Bengaline. I like our version but it certainly isn’t stretchy, is ribbed and I doubt it would last for years. I hardly ever see it, haven’t seen it for years come to think of it. Where do you shop for your preferred type and would they send samples?
Love your new top and the examples of the style – wide with skinny arms. More inspiration.
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Rivergum said:
I buy mine here
https://theremnantwarehouse.com.au/fabrics/bengalines.html
And here
https://www.stylearc.com/shop-category/fabric/?s=bengaline
But it might be pricey to ship. Sorry I can’t be more help. Maybe someone else knows what it is called in other parts of the world?
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Vancouver Barbara said:
Thanks. I’ll contact them and perhaps they’ll send samples. I’ll happily pay for the shipping.
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Roxane said:
Great combo! The oversized top/skinny bottom has always been a good friend to me, since my legs are my skinniest part. I’ve knit a couple of sweaters in that general shape, too–some designers are calling them “swonchos,” as in sweater/poncho.
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Rivergum said:
Very interesting, i have never heard of a swoncho. Glad to hear others like them as well.
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Roxane said:
Also, I think I am going to have to order some of this magic Australian bengaline. I think I know what it is, and I THINK I have a pair of RTW pants that I paid too much for in it. But I have never seen the fabric in US shops. (The boutique where I got the pants calls them “Magic Pants” because they are flattering on everybody–I watched women of all shapes and sizes walking in and out of the dressing room, all looking great and all paying too much in at least one color, before I succumbed.) If I am right, and the fabric turns out to be this bengaline, they are also magic because they will be very easy to copy.)
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Rivergum said:
Just one word of caution, one of my Australian sewing friends just told me her Bengaline does not last as long as mine. After some head scratching I concluded that maybe she washes her pants a lot more often then I do? I have quite a variety of pants and skirts to share the wear and I don’t wash these very often either, especially not the ones that are not in direct contact with the skin because they are worn with tights or leggings. If you wash a Bengaline garment once a week or more it might not last as long as mine have.
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